How to Store Firewood the Right Way

Single row stacks are the way to go if you have the space. I know double rows look more efficient and hold more wood in less linear footage, but the inside faces of a double row barely get any air. That middle layer stays damp for months longer than the outside. If you absolutely have to do double rows, leave at least 3–4 inches of gap between the two rows so air can actually move through.

On the top row, stack your pieces bark-side up. The bark acts like a natural shingle — it sheds water off the top of your stack instead of letting it soak into the exposed grain. This one small thing makes a noticeable difference, especially if you don’t have a cover on the stack yet.

For the ends, use a crisscross pattern. Alternate the direction of the end pieces every other row like you’re building a little log cabin. This locks the stack together and keeps it from toppling over. I had a 12-foot stack collapse onto my lawn mower once because I didn’t bother with this. Bent the handle and everything. Crisscross your ends, people.

Also — and this sounds obvious but I see it constantly — don’t stack your wood too tall. Four feet is a good max height. Go higher than that and you’re asking for the whole thing to come down, especially on soft ground after a rain.

Here’s the rule: cover the top, leave the sides open. That’s it. That’s the whole thing. A tarp draped over the top row and hanging down maybe 4–6 inches on each side is perfect. You want rain and snow to slide off the top while wind still flows through the sides and pulls moisture out.

The biggest mistake I see — and I made it myself that first year — is wrapping the whole stack in a tarp like you’re shrink-wrapping a pallet. This traps moisture inside, creates condensation when the sun heats things up, and basically turns your firewood stack into a terrarium. Mold, fungus, rot — it’ll happen fast.

If you want something more permanent than a tarp, a sheet of corrugated metal roofing laid across the top works great. It won’t degrade in UV like tarps do, and you can weigh it down with a couple of pieces of firewood on top so it doesn’t blow off. I’ve got a couple pieces of old barn roofing on my main stack right now and they’ve lasted years. Some people build little lean-to roofs out of 2x4s and metal roofing — if you’re handy, that’s the gold standard.

I’ve made most of these myself, so no judgment. But here’s what to avoid:

• Stacking against the house. Invites termites, carpenter ants, and mice directly into your walls. Keep at least 5 feet of clearance, 20 if you can manage it.
• Wrapping the whole stack in a tarp. Only cover the top. The sides need airflow or you’ll get mold and rot faster than you’d believe.
• Stacking directly on the ground. Moisture wicks up from the soil and the bottom rows will rot. Use a rack, pallets, or even a couple of 2x4s. Anything to get air underneath.
• No airflow between the stack and a wall or fence. Leave a few inches of gap behind the stack. Air needs to move on all sides, not just the front.
• Storing large quantities inside. A few armloads near the stove for convenience? Fine. But don’t fill your basement or garage with stacked firewood — bugs, spiders, and fire risk.
• Waiting too long to split. Full rounds take forever to dry. Split your wood to burning size as soon as possible after cutting. The more exposed surface area, the faster it dries.